The Children's Peace Monument at Hiroshima
(Photo by Fiona Easterby)
The rally has reached Matsue and the competition is tight, much like today's regularities on which crews faced twisting climbs, tight hairpins and numerous speed changes.
However, the day started very quietly, with an early morning pilgrimage to Hiroshima's Peace Park, a sombre monument to the devastation and catastrophic loss of life that followed the use of the world's first atomic weapon on 6th August 1945. The personal testimonies of those who survived the attack are terribly moving, and the visit was a highly emotional experience.
Silent witness - a relic of Hiroshima
Putting thoughts of nuclear conflict aside (probably best not read any newspapers for a while), crews returned to their cars and set off on the 298km drive to Matsue. After lunch in the fishing port of Hamada, the route climbed into the mountains via Iwami Ginzan, a fascinating 16th Century silver mine and World Heritage Site. Shortly after this, and quite unconnected to the incident in which Marion van Gemert mistakenly directed husband Jan to drive their Ford Mustang into a bemused local's garden, the crews of Cars 27, 28 and 29 were startled by the appearance of an ancient Japanese woman dressed in white, who leapt into the road with an old pram and a bucket, gesticulating wildly. Fortunately the cars were only travelling at 20km/h, and everyone escaped unscathed, albeit slightly spooked.
It was something of a relief then to head for the magnificent 6th Century Izumo Taisha shrine, possibly the oldest in Japan and certainly one of the most important; the Shinto deity enshrined here is believed to be Japan's original creator, Okuninushi. En route, hundreds of local people lined the road, waving Union Jacks and cheering the rally on its way; in fact our competitors hail from 15 nations, but the gesture was much appreciated nevertheless. We were even more honoured to be allowed to enter the shrine itself - a very great privilege, seldom awarded, that took months of negotiation by Rally Round Director Liz Wenman. The rally was blessed by a Shinto priest, whereupon all were entitled to make a wish. Whether we actually finish with 51 crews in equal first place remains to be seen.
White hares - at Izumo Taisha
The authorities here take rules very seriously, and more than one car has been stopped by the police for not displaying a Japanese number plate. Sean and Eleanor Dixon's Mercedes-Benz 230SL was one such, but they had the presence of mind to show the many official letters of permission and welcome included in the roadbook (in both English and Japanese) and were allowed to proceed on their way. Alastair Caldwell was also stopped, but escaped the long arm of the law with his customary and well-practised aplomb.
Cool aid - Chris Evans' modified Moretti
Climbing through the mountains, Chris and Jack Evans have experienced overheating problems in their lovely little rear-engined Fiat Moretti 850. Inspired by that man Caldwell, who on our 2015 Thunder Dragon Rally in Bhutan modified his Porsche 912 with a cooling air scoop made from half a plastic bucket (still in place), Chris chopped up a couple of traffic cones and stuck them to the Moretti's slotted engine cover with duct tape. They don't do much for the car's Dino-esque lines, but seem to be working well, so far.
Working slightly less well, the wine-powered Mercedes-Benz 220B of Johannes Lips, Johanna Schriver and Julian Griffiths suffered a few electrical hiccups, and had to be carried to the hotel in Matsue. The 1969 Morgan Plus 8 of Aussie couple Philip and Laurette Macwhirter has also been struggling - as Philip put it, "We're dragging our arse on the ground" - so he plans to spend the evening working on the rear springs. Meanwhile Keith and Norah Ashworth have lost the power steering on their Jaguar XK140, so Keith will soon have the arms of a Sumo wrestler. On a happier note, we have been rejoined by Michael and Eunice McInerney, whose Ford V8 now has a new clutch; wisely, they plan to take things gently tomorrow.
This evening's dinner was a fabulous occasion, accompanied by a local Iwami Kagura dance group acting out a Japanese version of George and the Dragon. With drums, swords, colourful costumes and sparkling dragon fire, it was all very dramatic, and won lot of applause.
Exit the dragon - drama at Matsue
No less dramatic are the latest rally standings. Albeit modified by the 'Joker' system that allows crews to drop their worst regularity performance of the week, the leaderboard could hardly be tighter. Jan Woien and Jan Erik Hansen are clinging on to the lead in their 1935 Alvis Speed 20, but they are just 0.58 sec ahead of Martinus and Josephina Aaldering in their 1937 Alvis Speed 25. Less than a minute behind in third place overall are classic category leaders Gerry Crown and Matt Bryson in the 1974 Leyland P76, a mere 1.19 seconds ahead of Philip Garratt and Kieron Brown in their 1977 Triumph Stag.
Things might well change tomorrow, as the 342km drive to Miyazu includes no fewer than four regularity sections. Wisely, most competitors were in bed by 11pm. On this of all days, we wish them a peaceful night.
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